tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-84701568024128990302024-03-05T19:27:30.563-08:00Project Sierra LeoneDriving a VW transporter to West AfricaTonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-72376583584617786832014-03-27T03:13:00.001-07:002014-03-27T12:36:06.564-07:00Looking back<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Posted from back home:</span></i><br />
The original idea was to sell the VW van in West Africa and fly back, but as I liked traveling in this van so much, I even liked it more than traveling by motorbike, I decided that I would drive it back to Belgium and keep it for future adventures. I basicly took the same way back through Guinee, Mali and Mauritania, and again had some troubles at the borders with corruption. It seems that regarding corruption, things have gotten really bad over the last couple of years, whereas previously you could just smile and dismiss their questions for money, now they insist you pay up and have no problem refusing you to enter the country. They even make the locals pay, as I've seem on the Gogui border in Mali. Paying 5000 Cfa, or 8 euro's to stamp your passport annoys the hell out of me, but just imagine what it means for a local, earning 2 euro's a day. This, combined with the burocracy, made me decide that I was finished with Africa, or at least, for now. I still had to drive the 8000 km back home tough, and was glad it all went pretty smooth. I got blocked in Bamako for a week, as the Mauritanian embassy wouldn't issue a visa until we officialy changed our intinerary away from the route de l'espoir.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Karl, last night in Diema, Mali.</td></tr>
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Going up, the borders were a bit easier to cross, and I had a good time as I traveled with an Austrian biker up to Dakhla and with a French couple in a van up to Essaouira. <br />
I had some side-road adventures as here taking the wrong road up to paradise valley and the Immouzer waterfalls, spending the night on an gnarly track high in the mountains.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What do you do when the road gets worse and worse, and you haven't seen a vehicle all day? You just keep going!</td></tr>
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But overal I got home fairly quick in 5 weeks from Bamako without any problems.<br />
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I would like to end with posting some trip statistics for anyone planning a trip like this. And if you are not going to do '<span style="font-size: small;"><b>real</b></span>' offroad <u>and</u> like to save money <u>and</u> have more comfort, I can honestly recommend buying an old van instead of a 4x4. This van was a 4x4, but you would be surprised how far off the beating track you can go with any 2x4. To go off the main road looking for a nice place for camping, you don't need a kitted out, expensive toyota or landrover.<br />
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<ul>
<li>Days on the road: 141</li>
<li>Days slept in the van: 140 </li>
<li>Theoretical money saved on hotel costs at 30/night: 4200 euro</li>
<li>Total distance: 20000 km</li>
<li>Distance offroad: 1000 km (that's including the very bad roads)</li>
<li>Repairs on the car: 2 (gearshift in Sierra Leone 10 euro, glowplugs in Spain 200 euro)</li>
<li>Flat tyres: 0</li>
<li>Getting stuck: 2 (both in soft sand in Morocco)</li>
<li>Bribes paid: 5 (totaling 60 euro, way too much)</li>
<li>Days of rain: 2</li>
<li>Cost of visa's: 300 euro</li>
<li>Cost of fuel: 1600 euro (estimate)</li>
<li>Total cash money spent: 6700 euro ( 1340/month)</li>
<li>Cost of the car : 3500 euro (TOTAL: that includes buying it, getting it roadlegal, building the interior and maintaining it during the trip)</li>
<li>Things I would do different next time: take <span style="font-size: x-small;">(even)</span> more Belgian beer!</li>
</ul>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last day camping in the desert and one of the times I got stuck.</td></tr>
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<br />Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-80201644368196211562014-02-06T04:43:00.001-08:002014-02-06T06:29:52.038-08:00Bye bye beach, hello mountains<br />
Bureh beach is an amazing place, if I had to compare it to other beautiful places in Africa, it would certainly be in my top 3. The relaxed atmosphere makes it stand out from other places, most of the day the van would be wide open, without me having to worry about theft and no pushy sellers of souvenirs were to be seen. Cold beers were served right up to the van and ladies selling cookies, eggs or even more would just present themselves.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alima and some school children</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cookie lady came by every day</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All were very happy with their own picture</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My new guard dogs</td></tr>
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Life was slow during the week, with the white expaxts only showing up in the weekend, but 2 backpackers from Norway arrived and together we made a daytrip to Banana Island.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fruit bats at Banana Island</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ever seen a banana this color?</td></tr>
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At one of the party weekends Gary met a Spanish guy building schools up North in
Kabala and as he was looking for a project to support he made
arrangements to go and visit these projects. For me, spending 9 days in a
row on a beach was plenty, and as I was going the same way back into
Guinnea, I joined him towards Kabala. Being up in the mountains I looked
forward to a bit cooler temperatures too. We said goodbye to the lovely
people of the Rakis hotel and the surf club and were happy to find the
road in good condition, with only the last part slowing us down because
of roadworks.<br />
Coco, as the Spanish guy was called, turned out to be a great guy, already for 2 years in Sierra Leone, he build 4 schools together with the locals. As these little villages are only accesible with motorbikes, Coco repaired his little honda 125 for me to ride, so the next day we could drive out in the jungle with 3 bikes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coco</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gary on the way up to the villages</td></tr>
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It turned out to be quiet an adventure, after some more repairs in the morning, we only left at 11 so we needed to hurry to complete this 100 km round trip to 3 villages. But even before we made it to the first one, I had a flat tyre, one that prooved difficult to fix, both Gary and Coco busted their knuckels getting the tire off the rim. Coco had a pretty deep gash in his finger and to make matters worse, we pinched the tube getting the tire back on. So the 2 remaining bikes drove to the next village while I waited for them to return. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lit a fire to keep the flies away</td></tr>
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In a good hour they came back with the wheel fixed and so we made it to the village of Kadanka. We also managed to reach the next one through some amazing little roads riding up and down big mountains, but luckily we skipped the last one and were already on the way back when Coco's bike lost the retainer of the front sprocket. Just before dark we made it back on 2 bikes to Kabala to end the adventure with cold beers and nice food in the 'Choices' bar.<br />
After that I had a bit of a rest day while Gary and Coco went for more and the next day I was to drive North into Guinea.<br />
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<br />Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-34743244336503218852014-01-23T07:40:00.001-08:002014-01-23T08:05:41.175-08:00Beach time<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishermen on Tokeh beach</td></tr>
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Last week has been spend relaxing on the beaches of the Freetown peninsula. After Laka beach, were Jason put up with us for free for 4 days, we stopped at Nr2 river beach and Tokeh. But the most amazing place surely is Bureh beach, where the boys of the 'Bureh Beach Surf Club' welcomed us and Gary finally got back on his board again.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pink fruit is called apples and taste like apples too</td></tr>
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I made a good deal with the owner of the next door hotel 'Rakis Beach Side Resort' to let me use the bathroom and showers and I am parked in a quiet spot almost right on the beach. There is no hassle from anyone and the place is secure, so at night I sleep with all the doors open, looking at the stars and hoping for a breeze. Dough even if there is a breeze, the temperatures doesn't drop below 27°c. Days usually get a steady 32°c, but it's the humidity that gets to you, both Gary and I are struggeling with a bit of a cold, coughing with a runny nose and a headache, weird. I'm planning on one more weekend and on monday it's back to work, well, back on the road, for the 3 month trip back home.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">www.bugsonmyboard.org</td></tr>
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Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-19945426720159691002014-01-15T03:18:00.003-08:002014-01-15T03:24:37.238-08:00Sierra LeoneSo there I was in Conacky parked next to a Total gas station near the Sierra Leonian embassy. From 9 in the morning I sat in the embassy, and when I filled in the application they said I would need a hotel reservation. So within 30 minutes I came back with a reservation I printed myself and they were pleased with that, however the visa would be isued in 72 hours. As I didn't fancy spending 3 days next to a dump, I pushed a bit to get it the same day. After explaning that I'm sleeping in my car on the street and an elebarate private interview with the ambassador they told me to come back in the afternoon. It was walking back at 3 the same afternoon that I spotted a motorbike with a surfboard strapped to it, that could only be one guy, Garry. I know Garry from a tread on the HUBB and met him already in Morocco, so it was nice to see him again. He was going to put his tent at the gasstation as I went to pick up the visa and laisser passer, which for Sierra Leone is also printed at the embassy. Next day we drove up to the border in good spirits, but when we were finaly in, it was 4 hours later and both of us were at boiling point, especially the last hour long discussion about our 'carte brune' insurance not being valid was too much. I ended up bribing and paying my way into Sierra Leone, but at least we were on perfect asfalt roads. After a mechanical hickup (the gear change lever came loose), we found a perfect spot by a river to camp. <br />
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The next day we drove straight through Freetown in search of the famous beaches and there I was, at my final destination and on the perfect location. We ended up at Jason's 'Hard Rock' hotel in Laka beach, and I must say, it comes very close to what I envisioned when I dreamed about driving a van to Freetown 6 months ago. Just look at the picture....<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broken down just over the border</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garry and me</td></tr>
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Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-50894635136900615732014-01-10T05:23:00.001-08:002014-01-10T06:01:51.275-08:00GuineaDriving into Guinea prooved more difficult than I imagined. At the main border the gerdarmerie immediately wanted money for a stamp. I refused, and while the guy shouted to the others 'if he doesn't pay, he doesn't come in', I went to see the customs for the laisser-passez. There a second surprise awaited me, as they believed I was going to sell my car in Guinea, they wanted me to put up a bond, which I would receive back when leaving the country. So how much would this be I asked: 1000 euro! I thanked him and made my way back into Mali, being lucky to have a mutiple entry visa.<br />
For a moment I realy thought of just going back to Bamako and call this whole trip off, but then I noticed a small border post on the map, very close to the main one, it would invalve 150 km offroad and I thought it was worth a chance. That night I slept in the bush in Mali and the next day it took me another 6 hours to get to the small border over very bad piste, and I was amazed how well the van holds up on this kind of road. Within 1,5 hours I crossed the border with a free laisser-passer and without paying any officials, result. This piste followed the Niger river and by the evening I came upon one of the most scenic camping spots I ever been on. Right on the banks of the river, with an 180° view of the river's birdlife and with the rumble of the nearby village just hearable as the wind carried it towards me. I stayed for 2 days while Syncro discovered the surroundings.<br />
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The next day I drove to Kan Kan, hoping to get some money out of an ATM and find some fuel. Both were utterly impossible. So I changed some money on the black market and calculated I had enough fuel for another days drive. The town reminded me very much of the hot cities in central Africa with their crowded markets and street food on every corner. I quite like Guinea, and am glad to have gotten in, I was even more pleased when I found some very good menthol sigarettes for 0,15 euro per packet.<br />
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Because of the gasoline shortage, I decided to go straight towards Conakry, thinking there must be fuel on the main road towards the capital, right? No, not only was the road in very bad condition from Kouroussa up to Mamou, even in Mamou no fuelstation had any gasoline. 20 liters were bought on the black market and only in Kindia I found a working gas station.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEr9BNluCYVeJHaMEwV_g4N4Ctbbm9XAJM8kw9rEYZpSCE2_kWz-jWkDIiR9pHgUx5XTgL8SX7fNS-hETkLhlUHrTGqN71HMmxSEwfVwf_kMtcXP-Eb-b_Kz5U-iorLY1MDhDTH0Cvu_tZ/s1600/1-P1090495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEr9BNluCYVeJHaMEwV_g4N4Ctbbm9XAJM8kw9rEYZpSCE2_kWz-jWkDIiR9pHgUx5XTgL8SX7fNS-hETkLhlUHrTGqN71HMmxSEwfVwf_kMtcXP-Eb-b_Kz5U-iorLY1MDhDTH0Cvu_tZ/s1600/1-P1090495.JPG" height="320" width="268" /></a>I had to get to Conakry to get my Sierra Leone visa, and I knew it wasn't a pleasant city, but my God, this is one of the worst ones so far. First the road was under construction (by the Chinese of course), and the congestion starts 30 km out of the centre. Then I'm pulled of the road at a checkpoint and were the checkpoint have been very friendly so far, now this one 'boss' finds something wrong. It's the dog. Where is the dog passport? I tried reasoning but he insisted he would drive with me to the 'direction generale' of customs in town to sort it out. Somewhere along this drive I manage to bribe him and get him out of the car. Syncro owes me now one watch and 9 euro's. By then it's late afternoon, over 40 degrees, and I am completely stuck in traffic. For 1,5 hours I see the GPS is stuck on 'destination: 11km', then the traffic free's up but at every crossroads with police I'm pulled off the road so they can check all the papers while demanding some gifts. I decide to camp at a Total gas station, near the Sierra Leone embassy and that is where I am now. It's a lovely place as you can see on the pictures, there's burning garbage, pigs, flies and muskietos, luckily the people are friendly and helpfull.<br />
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<br />Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-30000136542474398192013-12-31T01:23:00.004-08:002013-12-31T01:59:40.288-08:00Walking the DogonFrom Bandiagara, me, Esteban and Abdul organised a 4 day walking safari, together with Sheick Dolo, whom I met in Bamako and brought along for guiding us trough his native region.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">River just before Sangha</td></tr>
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We had to hire a 4x4 for the drive up to Sangha, cause the last bit of this road is just too hard going for my van. Once in Sangha, we left syncro (the dog) at the family of Sheick and started walking the North side of the Dogon.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">house of a hunter</td></tr>
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Via banani and Koundou we marched to Yougodogorou.<br />
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We spent our first night under the stars, luckily without moskietos, as this is the dry season.<br />
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The second night we had a beautiful sunset overlooking the plain towards Burkina.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeD9SCk2eIdByd9vsn9Fz4shAivhlaYPOVj4KZYCykmtDzxtno2ODm1AEj2u7khuH4crGFivnmL79AA9MZqo5faHDEpxHXL0cVu8Jiwy7iYJXZo-2-gZ07UsM4Bi9yqfjAD4rBxUYCoPg/s1600/1-P1000574.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeD9SCk2eIdByd9vsn9Fz4shAivhlaYPOVj4KZYCykmtDzxtno2ODm1AEj2u7khuH4crGFivnmL79AA9MZqo5faHDEpxHXL0cVu8Jiwy7iYJXZo-2-gZ07UsM4Bi9yqfjAD4rBxUYCoPg/s320/1-P1000574.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yougoupiri</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We only walked from 7'30 to 11' and from 14'30 to 17' due to the midday heat. The rest of the time was basicly spent waiting for the food to be prepared, which usually took 2 hours. On the 3rd day we visited some very nice Tellem villages, with the typical mud houses and storages hanging from the clifs.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bronze ring</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The last night we had a nice dinner with some beers in Yandouma celibrating christmas before the 12 km walk back to Sangha. Once in Sangha I found my dog had been well taken care of, as she was fed dried fish and looked twice as big.<br />
<br />Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-4711617444612417102013-12-12T04:15:00.001-08:002013-12-12T04:27:38.243-08:00Oh Mali<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Just one hour in Mali, and arrested again,
faut le faire</span></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNbg3uGzwux5p-F11jrSK7RLK95qJQiMJKKovaeY8ayW8arxril5h3B5-9w6YjdEt9mp4a8d9bGlAlP7L5OKkjClILL9bxZksbe4deHVTGFrjOJLhfSnnERsjOMyMdjvJ4kKE3d3-2R-c5/s1600/1-P1090088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNbg3uGzwux5p-F11jrSK7RLK95qJQiMJKKovaeY8ayW8arxril5h3B5-9w6YjdEt9mp4a8d9bGlAlP7L5OKkjClILL9bxZksbe4deHVTGFrjOJLhfSnnERsjOMyMdjvJ4kKE3d3-2R-c5/s320/1-P1090088.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">I knew it was going to be some long days of driving, but the sting was
in the end. Because my visa and laisser passez was running out, I left my
friends Steban and Abdul in Nouakchott, Steban's bike was almost fixed anyway,
so I left with a good feeling. I was going to see them in a few days in Bamako,
and I like being on the road on my own.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ryvPo0ahYvvtw3K7VR1YMHok7y8CSGHWYtN34Fj9xQ4oRNGDCwxzFRNfUmgwrdx4YfS4VkZvkxiN13FcLr9dmLA0t8YaKAPeTrLJxefgtFac7iWR8K_v4DQPqQ6untnjT_SpStfAv7ke/s1600/1-P1090090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ryvPo0ahYvvtw3K7VR1YMHok7y8CSGHWYtN34Fj9xQ4oRNGDCwxzFRNfUmgwrdx4YfS4VkZvkxiN13FcLr9dmLA0t8YaKAPeTrLJxefgtFac7iWR8K_v4DQPqQ6untnjT_SpStfAv7ke/s400/1-P1090090.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"> First day was 600 km to Kiffa, only
stopping for a break In the desert watching the dromedary go by, where I stayed
in 'Le Phare du Desert', which every year, gets a little more crappy. It
doesn't bother me, as I am parked outside and only need the toilet.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0-QJgksu4pbOh4GkLC9DmVrhMivJtbwpLXe_q4FRgaGSHSL46RzgmMeyNqFRGzcmDuA49MH4ksWfSrGqFlPGcaYr9_Ez0op1mEzHpVJreYkjniWrjZdcQUOe6COlPl-dZBdWxt4BQ7Dse/s1600/1-P1090098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="115" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0-QJgksu4pbOh4GkLC9DmVrhMivJtbwpLXe_q4FRgaGSHSL46RzgmMeyNqFRGzcmDuA49MH4ksWfSrGqFlPGcaYr9_Ez0op1mEzHpVJreYkjniWrjZdcQUOe6COlPl-dZBdWxt4BQ7Dse/s400/1-P1090098.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"> I must say
that I'm pretty happy with the whole camper setup. So far it has been perfect,
the days in Laayoune when it rained, we cooked and watched movies inside with 3
people, on my own I have all the living space I need and the dog has its place
in the front on the floor. So I was happy just being safely parked and by just
after six I was on the road heading for the border. Just a half hour later the
first incident occurred, which would set the pace of the day. In the dark, I
didn’t see the stop sign for the first checkpoint of the day. The sleepy
officer came out and his first word was ‘infraction’, I talked my way out of
that one. Driving along I noticed that the asphalt was brand new so I thought
they finally repaired the badly potholed stretch after Kiffa. But new asphalt
in Africa always means road works a bit further on. And so it was this time,
for 50 km you had to use a side road that varied from soft sand to rocky
corrugated and even mud. It was a test case for the interior, which stood up to
the 2 hours of almost rattling apart. As I passed Ayoun around midday I came to
some tires laying on the road, strange, is this a checkpoint? The police came
out and his first word was ‘infraction’. I had failed to notice the stop
signs…again. After explaining I had no money, he was very happy when I said I
might have a ‘cadeaux’ instead. He is now the proud owner of a new watch. After
even more checkpoints, where every time they would phone the next one a tourist
was coming trough I made it to the border, and after signing a paper that said
‘ I’m aware that I’m crossing into a country where it’s almost certain bad
things will happen’ I found myself on the Mali side of the border, Sogui. I was
happy to be here again, but that happiness didn’t last very long, one hour to
be precise. After stamping in and ignoring the guy at the barrier trying to
sell me a ticket (which is a scam) I got to the gerdarmerie. It started out
nice, all laughs and all the officers amused with the little dog,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>that I bring in to every office just for
that purpose. A couple of days before, I read on the HUBB, that tourists where
now escorted up to Bamako, and that this was kind of a scam, so with that in
mind, I was determined not to play by their rules. They explained that they had
their orders and that I had no choice but to pay for the escort. I said, yes,
escort me but, no, I don’t pay. I parked my van in front of their office and
waited for an hour. They asked me to park somewhere else, I refused (mistake
1). I said I would call the consul of Belgium (mistake 2). Wanting to get to
going I asked how much it was for an escort to Niorro, 10000 Cfa, around 15
euro. I shouted that that was theft (mistake 3). To this point I had failed to
notice just how annoyed they where getting. So when I came back from the money
changer, with the same arrogant attitude saying this was a scam, to my
surprise, they arrested me.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">They started filling out a report with all my infractions, disobeying an
order of an officer in uniform, driving without insurance (500 m), calling the
gerdarmerie thieves and some other. By then it already had sunk in, but when
they then read you your rights (the right to remain silent, the right to a
lawyer..) I thought, oh no, not again (for those who do not know my history in
Mali, read the Round Africa blog).</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">One of them was so angry with me he didn’t even want to speak to me
again, but luckily the chief kept talking, for an hour he gave me a lecture
,with me after every pause apologising myself profusely. When after the 3<sup>rd</sup>
time I asked if another solution is possible like a fine to be paid, he said
there was indeed a fine for these situations. This was music to my ears, as from
then on I knew I was going to get out of this pickle. I ended up paying a 20
euro fine, which I preferred over going to jail, and paying for the escort to the
brigade in Nioro, where I slept in the car park. Next morning they escorted me
to Bamako, with a big smile I paid the rather outrageous amount of 31000 CFA
(46 euro) and was happy to arrive at the Sleeping Camel to have a cold beer.
Lesson learned, respect the gendarmerie, it’s not the police!</span></div>
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Footnote: With only yesterday 19 islamists being killed in Timbuktu, the goverments concern with tourist coming in via Nioro is real and the escort is no scam. Just a shame it has to be so expensive.<br />
<a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-25332148">http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-25332148</a></div>
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Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-2384933354949718322013-12-07T11:55:00.001-08:002013-12-07T11:55:26.923-08:00Mechanic to the rescueSome good news today for my friend Steban, after a tip from Matt Roach on the horizons unlimited forum we found Tdjani, a bike mechanic which first put back some oil and water in the KTM, started it up with ease and then told us it's not the cylinder gasket, but the water pump that was faulty, just by looking at the water filler hole on the radiator. He then dismanteld the cylinder head and water pump in record time and if all goes well, Steban will be rolling by tomorrow. Result!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was a pleasure watching those golden hands do their work.</td></tr>
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<br />Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-63135393357633240802013-12-06T09:02:00.004-08:002013-12-07T11:42:25.691-08:00Noakchott troublesI'm almost a week here now in Noakchott, the capital of Mauritania. I arrived here together with Mike on a tenere and Esteban on a KTM 640. When we saw the oil of the KTM was milky coloured, we changed the oil. But to our horror the complete engine was filled with an oil/water kind of mayonaise. The starter motor, clutch, oil filters, all clogged up, we were surprised it even made it to here. For 3 days we tried to get to a solution, even trying to fix it ourselves, but finally Esteban had to realise to his dream to do this trip on this bike, was gone.<br />
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He now has a couple of options, like shipping the bike, then flying back to Spain and start again on his BMW, but it was hard to see a man's life long dream go to pieces.<br />
Yesterday Abdul, a Soudanese/Brittish guy on a fazer6 roadbike arrived, and in a few days we'll be heading for Mali. It will be sad to leave a friend behind with a broken bike.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abdul, on his way to Soudan, crossing Niger and Tchad</td></tr>
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And before anyone askes, the dog is still doing fine. For doggy pictures, they made an interesting forum, it's called facebook, I think.<br />
<br />Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-44797660931170104692013-12-03T00:37:00.001-08:002013-12-07T11:41:53.063-08:00Long way to MauritaniaAfter doing some surf places and meeting Garry, who is on a bike with a surfboard, me and Luke drove on South. By this time we picked up Manos, a greek hitchhiker, on the way to Senegal.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Got stuck in some dunes off the road in Laayoune</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garry with the surfboard</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Surfs Up</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One happy Luke</td></tr>
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Once we got to Dakhla, it started raining and didn't stop for 2 days, which is kind of strange, in the middle of the Sahara. We resorted to cooking inside the van and watching some movies.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally found the sign for the tropic of Cancer, you can see why I missed it twice</td></tr>
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Just before the border we spend a night in Lamhiriz, a fishermen's village.<br />
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When we got to the border, I was happy we got there in the morning, as it was very busy that day. After 2 hours we could start checking out of Morocco.<br />
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Then after succesfully navigating no-mans land, we had another 2,5 hours of frustration on the Mauri side, but eventually we made it in, with no questions asked about the dog, and just a very quick look in the van. They told me I could have brought in 3 bottles of alcohol per person, if only I had known, I wouldn't have drunk most of it by now.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chillin' in Nouadhibou</td></tr>
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I'm now in Nouakchott, sorting out the visa and teaming up with Spanish KTM driver Kruger for the 'route de l'espoir' to Mali.<br />
<br />Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-53648434970936376852013-11-24T02:10:00.001-08:002013-12-07T11:39:52.540-08:00Along the coastWe're slowly going south, spending time in some surf villages.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Testing the 4x4 option</td></tr>
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Luke and Ben tried some surfing, but I was happy just to watch them with some cold beers.<br />
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And I would like to introduce the newest team member, Syncro, the dog.<br />
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I'm in the proces of de-fleaing and de-worming her. But the biggest worry is how to get her over the Mauritanian border, I guess I will have to hide her next to the alcohol.<br />
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Next stop Tan Tan in the Western Sahara.Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-25940198895941530522013-11-20T02:39:00.002-08:002013-12-12T11:51:25.868-08:00Mountains & defeatFleeing the tourist hotspot that is Marrakech, I thought I would have a go climbing the 'Jebel Toubkal'. I kind of minimised the fact that it is the highest mountain in all of North Africa and that it's nearly winter time. But when I arrived in Imlil and spoke to someone that just returned from the top, I realised that it was not for me, at least not this time.<br />
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Today the weather was fine, but only yesterday it snowed, and as they told me that nighttime temperatures at basecamp were -10° and windchill temperature at the top was -20°, I thought it would be best to not even try and just have a nice walk about halfway up to basecamp. That way I could be back at the car around 15u and drive back off the mountain to an altitude where I could bushcamp without freezing.<br />
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I had a great time on the five hour walk, but unfortunately I didn't even get a glimpse of the Toubkal. I had to turn around at about 2500 m, still 2 hours from basecamp. All this time the track was going straight up and I found it to be hard going.<br />
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After returning to the car, I drove down to Asni, where I found a quite place to sleep. But at midnight I found myself surrounded by a large pack of wild dogs, howling all night. Luckily they where quite scared of me, and skirmished as soon as opended the side door.<br />
Now I'm in Taghazout, North of Agadir, waiting for Luke and Ben. As soon they arrive, we will be going ever more South...<br />
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Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-78729243582717240752013-11-15T04:38:00.002-08:002013-12-07T11:39:00.303-08:00Some more pictures & video<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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On the way to Marrakesh<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luke and Ben</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslEf4Z9MA0NwgSzEKgr_PRX9ibfZoHBIOs8i3KDiZHSPZ2IHNPNu56E3tnC5OcfRu0LZnUEY5RLhHJMc2y0cPaQVVQ1aABcJrlJGtpVrjDJW6xiW3LrMQadAqj53PNSvsuTjn5URvtfBX/s1600/1-P1080661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslEf4Z9MA0NwgSzEKgr_PRX9ibfZoHBIOs8i3KDiZHSPZ2IHNPNu56E3tnC5OcfRu0LZnUEY5RLhHJMc2y0cPaQVVQ1aABcJrlJGtpVrjDJW6xiW3LrMQadAqj53PNSvsuTjn5URvtfBX/s320/1-P1080661.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying to fix the fan...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBe3WO3acSw3jZc0iO6kz3_wQNuacLZwNcdAA3qJjNb3agoM3woKmyfnnr5YsN75cpQb9gaMiKcdpajhofq_aJm5o0JJaHb56FNBGBwGySP3qHBStglFjQrvSgLyqQHY-O7wcEmFwlIntX/s1600/1-P1080665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBe3WO3acSw3jZc0iO6kz3_wQNuacLZwNcdAA3qJjNb3agoM3woKmyfnnr5YsN75cpQb9gaMiKcdpajhofq_aJm5o0JJaHb56FNBGBwGySP3qHBStglFjQrvSgLyqQHY-O7wcEmFwlIntX/s320/1-P1080665.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...then letting the Moroccons do it</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cascades d'Ouzoud</td></tr>
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Next days will be spent back into the mountains, trying to climb the highest mountain of North Africa, the Jebel Toubkal, at 4120 meter.Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-70317261057223422662013-11-11T02:34:00.001-08:002013-12-07T11:38:43.043-08:00Morocco<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbHzTQkH3pp88KJK9XAOYVFk8S_c33C5CojCz9QgVQFf44Wf5uSqfGxuZwg6KZHm-APqozNkxus2A_aZFHC85pwGOcWe5UwPOcjq3ZD79tDi1F06EYQWZOalFadc5zlMVdnMCVqN55NapG/s1600/1-P1080631.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbHzTQkH3pp88KJK9XAOYVFk8S_c33C5CojCz9QgVQFf44Wf5uSqfGxuZwg6KZHm-APqozNkxus2A_aZFHC85pwGOcWe5UwPOcjq3ZD79tDi1F06EYQWZOalFadc5zlMVdnMCVqN55NapG/s320/1-P1080631.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picked up some Moroccon hikers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaOufv_XIv6Ltqk19H4EIpXQPIs5rdWk4YUykMsR-6z7LmJcByNI34j53NErWRN9dt85pU_gj3WgsQBELbi8wVzJdoZhuB0-OKhtTJVrS8xyA0X5tyQlIYhO18L0-E_b3NelLLJg3OlTpZ/s1600/1-P1000239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaOufv_XIv6Ltqk19H4EIpXQPIs5rdWk4YUykMsR-6z7LmJcByNI34j53NErWRN9dt85pU_gj3WgsQBELbi8wVzJdoZhuB0-OKhtTJVrS8xyA0X5tyQlIYhO18L0-E_b3NelLLJg3OlTpZ/s320/1-P1000239.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The anciant city of Volubilis</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrOppgDA4ORCz-iX5jQpADhbREy3qSPSs1qx9v1dd8lovBZdvld565zQgiNfHGU5LZ9m9WHgrVYCPQ7z_g1D8kGlkHaywJpIPSdM4II9MhlXDB9j8wcniJnuaYwB5Z-DDE4Aeo9UfxZJLL/s1600/1-P1000251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrOppgDA4ORCz-iX5jQpADhbREy3qSPSs1qx9v1dd8lovBZdvld565zQgiNfHGU5LZ9m9WHgrVYCPQ7z_g1D8kGlkHaywJpIPSdM4II9MhlXDB9j8wcniJnuaYwB5Z-DDE4Aeo9UfxZJLL/s320/1-P1000251.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the guard wondering how I got in before 8 o'clock</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwqjRCgG1OVGYyMkAoboZ59nLb8m0cHcFxc49o_Fc7Hpw3mrjQfzD5m3UH5S79zowdkjftygr2Yqqtssu7QkOiUlK2sI9Gn1-gVdp9uszyVeVG6lFY4WjD_zkQcgi-xGsT3q-o4jFBP-u0/s1600/1-P1000241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwqjRCgG1OVGYyMkAoboZ59nLb8m0cHcFxc49o_Fc7Hpw3mrjQfzD5m3UH5S79zowdkjftygr2Yqqtssu7QkOiUlK2sI9Gn1-gVdp9uszyVeVG6lFY4WjD_zkQcgi-xGsT3q-o4jFBP-u0/s320/1-P1000241.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice sunrise</td></tr>
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<tr align="left"><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeNtG88ndqUpmZ4yHahsOb7vbl9rxH8uChcd2RcIaNV37ZTYZc0M0luE4xSlE8ECT3-V0nz69A_10ncvKIIII7guUP8e3rX4fCOVmkYIoJA0lVDBHl-xmCVPWPj1MHuHZQHrMJrqJazj9W/s1600/1-P1000246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeNtG88ndqUpmZ4yHahsOb7vbl9rxH8uChcd2RcIaNV37ZTYZc0M0luE4xSlE8ECT3-V0nz69A_10ncvKIIII7guUP8e3rX4fCOVmkYIoJA0lVDBHl-xmCVPWPj1MHuHZQHrMJrqJazj9W/s320/1-P1000246.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Because I got in before it opened I got the place all to myself</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1c3PzLt7utK7dwyMQxV09qU2eprLuxEwf-AcLj-ZtzudfM1utBbDEmUvIA6uP0CelkCAIMtesQHR_9VZW19IlAHUGxpl1pyNW1Iae2MKAZU99Qvr2XfbcRZyBVPSDI9NHNUeZUXpwABae/s1600/1-P1000256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQuZw1HjnxPKbiGzKf7EThTRqmdA_gLfoQlJU1az0TbHjyZEXF-NevDxML4R3Dm6cIQhXUrXoZG3ADhd-hg7iZ9tGozpjBZJyz7uRdCV_ruAbU6uqahliVy-cZ2KD-R68pN7zLkXbXhpvb/s1600/1-P1000242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQuZw1HjnxPKbiGzKf7EThTRqmdA_gLfoQlJU1az0TbHjyZEXF-NevDxML4R3Dm6cIQhXUrXoZG3ADhd-hg7iZ9tGozpjBZJyz7uRdCV_ruAbU6uqahliVy-cZ2KD-R68pN7zLkXbXhpvb/s320/1-P1000242.JPG" /></a><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1c3PzLt7utK7dwyMQxV09qU2eprLuxEwf-AcLj-ZtzudfM1utBbDEmUvIA6uP0CelkCAIMtesQHR_9VZW19IlAHUGxpl1pyNW1Iae2MKAZU99Qvr2XfbcRZyBVPSDI9NHNUeZUXpwABae/s320/1-P1000256.JPG" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieM76hQUobMaOtTiTHYWGL7nnFNm47c9Wtauq4mAl7Np74AY6zts370K8Bd1eBznBBjYGgOV-sRqwf7lE2MX0utke3gdOOAK4BPMQXVWO4c7JFMGafJWtAjk0O1c0f7-EGijd5EO69yeZ1/s1600/1-P1080632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieM76hQUobMaOtTiTHYWGL7nnFNm47c9Wtauq4mAl7Np74AY6zts370K8Bd1eBznBBjYGgOV-sRqwf7lE2MX0utke3gdOOAK4BPMQXVWO4c7JFMGafJWtAjk0O1c0f7-EGijd5EO69yeZ1/s320/1-P1080632.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost blew up the engine when it overheated on this steep uphill part<br />
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Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-47628645947672677322013-11-05T22:42:00.002-08:002013-11-05T22:42:53.375-08:00First daysFinally I'm on the road, and I haven't been too lonely yet. I started out in Brussels visiting Geert, who hopped an a plane last time to come and pick me up in Nairobi, needless to say I'm forever gratefull. Then it was time for my first couchsurf experience in Troyes, France staying with Marie, who took great care of me and showed me the nice centre of Troyes and a working windmill. And now I'm staying in the south of France in Séte where my friend Régis has an appartement. It's was nice seeing him again after traveling together through central Africa for months last year.
The next days will be spent in Spain, where the temperatures are a nice 25 degrees and hopefully by this weekend I will make the crossing to Morocco.Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-35198547873949505372013-09-21T07:54:00.000-07:002013-09-27T11:06:28.618-07:00Converting the van<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Here's a report of the conversion of my '96 transporter van into a camper. My main concern was to keep a low profile, so I could just park up anywhere and spend the night inside unnoticed. Also I'm going to cross some area's where you definitely would want to be as stealth as possible as there have been some kidnappings in the past by AQMI (the West African branch of Al-Qaida)or MUJWA, in fact the last known kidnapping in the Sahara was in Diema, Mali, where an elderly guy in a motorhome was taken in broad daylight.<a href="http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2012-11-26/business/sns-rt-mali-hostage-update-1l5e8mqc7e-20121126_1_african-military-intervention-islamist-rebels-mujwa">http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2012-11-26/business/sns-rt-mali-hostage-update-1l5e8mqc7e-20121126_1_african-military-intervention-islamist-rebels-mujwa</a><br />
That was in november 2012, and he's still held captive in the Sahara along with about 8 other westerners.<a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-24121053">www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-24121053</a><br />
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Reason enough to not be noticed as a tourist at first glance, so no roof rack, sand plates, extra tyres or bicycle on the exterior, no high suspension and snorkel and definitely no stickers.
I took a bit of a risk buying an old builders van, but this one caught my eye and seemed to suit my needs.<br />
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It's a syncro, which means it's a 4x4 with a rear diff lock but no low gears and no raised suspension, so off road ability is pretty low. I paid 1400 euro's, but after fixing it up and getting it road legal it's closer to 3000 euro's by now, but that includes the interior, which I'm very pleased with.<br />
As a picture paints a thousand words, let me just show you:<br />
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I drove to the seller with my bike, put the bike in the van and drove home, pretty happy that the big motorbike just fitted in.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, there's some work to be done</td></tr>
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So as you can see it was a bit of a challenge, first I replaced the 2 front wheel bearings and got it to a garage to get it MOT'ed. That took them about a week and 2 tries while they welded a small hole on the underside. After that it was up to me to get going on the interior, and although my first plan was to keep it very simple, things got out of hand, and I may have overdone it a bit.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stripped out half of the shelves</td></tr>
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When I started poking around with a screwdiver, I discovered a hole. But luckily I have some welder friends.<br />
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I made myself a bed frame after watching a you tube movie on how to do it! Yes you tube rules, just type how to+... and it will show you how to do things!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Changed the timing and alternator belt</td></tr>
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So now it's looks nice and tidy and ready to go...<br />
<br />Tonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8470156802412899030.post-47289460160141134622013-07-30T07:44:00.003-07:002013-07-30T07:45:38.352-07:00Info about the next trip<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/365fiT8oq2k" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Soon more updatesTonyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15091825492634072032noreply@blogger.com0